Vintage Classic sports
News from the workshop, vehicles inspected, sales updates and anything else that might be going on around McPheat Automotive.
By Chris McPheat, Feb 5 2019 05:20PM
Following on from the progress on Rolls-Royce 20/25 engine last week I have been doing the last few jobs before putting it back in the car. The valve tappets are certainly a lot easier to adjust if you can just sit next to it. So is the front engine mount. With the invaluable help of my engine crane I now have the engine back in the engine bay and attached to the gearbox and I've done a lot of the connecting up. Tomorrow I plan to get the front cross-member, carburettor, fan and radiator installed and I'll see if I can get the car back on the ground.
By Chris McPheat, Feb 4 2019 06:33PM
I looked into the Rolls-Royce 20hp clutch problem today and, as you can see from the photo, it went quite well. I took the gearbox out rather than the engine, it's relatively easy on a 20hp as there is no rear cross-member in the way. It's just a case of removing the shifter mechanism & propshaft, disconnecting the pedals & rods, pulling the starter motor and bell housing bolts and dropping the gearbox back and down to get it out of the way. When the clutch went out in August the owner had a guy take a look at it, he gave up pretty quick but left the bell-housing access plate off so there was a lot of rust on the clutch cover & springs and it had got through to the drive plate. Both friction surfaces are worn out and the drive plate is damaged through heat, rust and interference with the lining rivets. New linings, centre plate & securing nuts and bolts will be ordered, re-fitting should be straightforward.
By Chris McPheat, Feb 1 2019 04:52PM
It seems like an age since I was able to report on any progress with the Rolls-Royce 20/25 engine I've been rebuilding but now might be the time. Having secured the cylinder head I decided I wasn't happy with the way the head nuts tightened up so stripped the entire thing down and replaced all of the studs (and there are a lot of them). That set me back a bit. Then I moved onto the crankshaft damper and there starts a tale of highs and lows and everything in between. Long story short, and with a lot of help from Paul Gardner at Hi Tech Engines, the centre drive plate has been replaced, a new sprung plate has been fitted and 1mm was taken out of the rear flywheel surface. Without doing this last job the damper was seized solid when all the nuts and bolts were tightened up and there was no movement in the pressure springs. Paul also made me a mandrel and I fabricated my own poundage bar, when it was all assembled it was bang on, 14lb needed to overcome the friction at 17.5" radially. One more teardown to fit the new pairs of drive springs and I could put it back on the engine and finally tie the crank to the valves. The timing cover, pulley and oil pipes are back on, I'll adjust the valves whilst it's easy to get at and then there's nothing for it but to put iit back in the car.
By Chris McPheat, Jan 30 2019 07:01PM
This Rolls-Royce 20hp 6-light limousine was dropped off today, I asked the guy who was coming to collect the truck to do the delivery job en-route. The owner called me earlier this week after getting my phone number from a customer who also has a 20hp. The clutch went out in August and it's been sitting since, needless to say he was happy to find someone relatively local who could take it in right away. I'll look the car over tomorrow and then meet with the owner to discuss how he wants to proceed. I can already see other things that need doing, the wheels aren't in the best of state for a start. I think the engine comes out easier than the gearbox so I'll likely take that angle and it's a good chance to spruce up the engine bay with everything out of the way.
By Chris McPheat, Jan 30 2019 06:50PM
The 1947 Austin K2 I look after has been back in the workshop for a winter service. It's had an oil and filter change, chassis has been greased, one of the half shafts needed tightening up to the hub, the steering drop arm required shimming and the battery earth has now be moved back to the original position on the chassis. Job done.